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Murf - 7 3L Diesel Question for ya
A lot of the things mentioned here would cause an uproar at the dieselstop forums.  The K&N is a big one when it comes to the stroke, some like it, others knock it. First of all, the airbox on the 2000 needs to go if you use a K & N, they dont seal well, and have dusted many many turbos. Even factory filters have caused dusting of the turbos. One thing to check when you replace the air filter is the inside of the boot going towards the turbo for any dirt or dust, if you see that, you may already have done too much damage, there should be NO dirt in there, maybe a fine coating of oil, but it should be clean oil, no gritty feel to it. Second thing, the injectors are fired by the oil, there is a HPOP on top of the engine that is fed by the LPOP. If for some reason the check valve gets gummed up, the oil level in there can drop and make cold starts a chore. Third, if you ran 125K mile without putting in any kind of diesel treatment, the injectors MAY, I say MAY, depending on the quality of the fuel, be dirty and that would cause poor starting. The best trick I have found to start my 99 PS is to turn on the ignition, wait for the light to go off, then turn it off and back on and the second time the light goes out, crank it over, 9 out of ten times it will fire right off, if not, I repeat the procedure and it fires right off.
As far as milage, what are the RPMs at when doing 70 MPH? If they are over 2000, then you dont have 3:73's or your overdrive isnt engaging. I have 4:10s on mine, and I get anywhere between 14 and 16 MPG depending on how I drive. Best I got was 18 going through indiana. Not bad for an 8000 pound brick. Best mods to start with, Gauges, tranny temp, boost and EGT, Intake and exhaust. Heard lots of good things about tymar, and the new FIPK from FORD for an intake setup, and a 4 or 5" exhaust. I went with a 5" Hypermax exhaust, it starts 3.5" off the turbo and goes to 5" right under the cab. The muffler is a free flow type that had a baffle in it, note I said had , Knocked it out before I installed it. I havent replaced the airbox yet due to financial restraints, but it seals very well for a factory box so I am not concerned about it, it is an early 99 with a 99.5 airbox, must have been a cusp truck. I use early 99 filters because they fit much better and seal very good. Blackstone reports concur with very low silicon levels. Currently my boost gets up to 19 PSI, better than most with a stock intake. Only reason I have not chipped it is due to the flaky tranny, I dont feel like destroying it, cant afford to bulletproof it yet. Finally, the way it runs after it starts is not good, does your EBV kick in after its stable? Lots of smoke when it idles? It could be the batteries, they are due for a replacement, the ones in mine are originals and I know they are due to be replaced, I can only crank for about 10 seconds before it winds down, but they are holding up ok, but I notice that it takes longer to start now when it gets really cold, so a set of Optimas are in the works. Like others have stated, the GP's can also be an issue, if a few are out of wack, that would cause intermitant fires during the first few minutes of running due to a few cold cylinders. I used to drive a Mack Superliner, and I remember some very cold starts where it would be running on 2 or 3 cylinders for minutes at a time before they all started firing, leaving smoke rings out the stack during that time, was quite fun to watch. And to think it was plugged in during the night, probably would not even fire off had it not been plugged in. Are you plugging in?
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Murf - 7 3L Diesel Question for ya
damn, thats cold. it was 25 in my garage, took three attempts to start this morning, the last I put my foot on the throttle and pushed it just a hair and she fired right up, but ran really rough, so I idled it outside and let it run like an F16 on takeoff for about 10 minutes. Looks like I will need to get the cord out and plug it in tonight.
Iowafun, that rear leak you talked about, I forgot to reply to that. Mine does the same thing at the pinion, in fact there are quite a few of them that do that, its a common thing, so dont be surprised if it happens again, it isnt anything that you did or hit, its just one of those FORD issues that crop up like the Cackle and crappy transmissions. I am not even going to bother touching mine unless it really starts to drip, I just make sure I check the level and top off as neccessary at every oil change, which I have not needed to do yet, the level is fine.
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